tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-31263864517120444762024-02-07T21:53:06.978-05:00Fight Medic Painting and PhotographyA somewhat humble blog about painting and photographing miniatures. I strive to entertain and maybe make your day a bit better!FltMedichttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09931211461270538814noreply@blogger.comBlogger242125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3126386451712044476.post-32096130529463344642018-02-26T07:08:00.000-05:002018-02-26T07:08:19.515-05:00The big one!<div>
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Spring break has arrived, and that means I have time to paint! Time to try and get 6 months of painting done in the next 5 days.<br /><br />So let's start things off right with the third and largest piece of terrain. I went with a stucco look on this one which I think will be a great contrast to the grey stone on the other pieces.</div>
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One thing that was a departure from my normal painting on this one was that I got to try out Scale 75 inks. I gotta say, I love em. They blend smoothly into the paints and the visocity is spot on my needs. I was able to blend P3 Menoth White, and a brown Scale 75 ink to make the stucco look just about right. </div>
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So here are the pics. Hopefully, I'll have a bunch more at the end of the week. </div>
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(Model in the picture is for scale on this one). </div>
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FltMedichttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09931211461270538814noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3126386451712044476.post-10260659539678139752017-12-31T08:02:00.000-05:002017-12-31T08:02:14.499-05:00MOAR Terrain!<br />
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Lord help me I like painting buildings now. Not sure why, maybe it's the jump from miniatures and it's such a different type of painting that it's been apealing in a form of new expression? Perhaps it's the desire to not have to leave my house to play games on nice boards covered in nice terrain pieces with fully painted armies?<br />
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Either way.... Here is the latest block of resin I've painted up from Table Top World. I belive this is the humble Cottage II. It was a lot of fun, I tried to do a bit of OSL coming from the window onto the sack of some sort of fruit things. I think it came out well. I'm not gonna list the paints used, as they are the same as the last buliding I did (so if you are that interest just keep scrolling down the screen and you will find it).<br />
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Up next is the BIG ONE. So stay tuned.....FltMedichttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09931211461270538814noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3126386451712044476.post-10851054200844870872017-12-11T23:39:00.000-05:002017-12-11T23:39:59.584-05:00Let's talk Terrain.<br />
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Over the last few years, some tabletop games have been moving over to using 2D terrain for wargaming. While I think it's a great for tournament organizers in so much that it's much cheaper, faster to setup and frankly less taxing on your painted models, I feel that it just looks and feels less immersive in the world that we create through our games. With this in mind, I set about trying to find great looking pieces of terrain that were also budget friendly. If you have ever searched for resin terrain you will know just how expensive it can be, I stumbled upon Table Top World and I was just blown away. Their pricing is actually quite reasonable and the pieces are incredibly detailed (even the insides had details added!).<br /><br />I chose the Inn as my first piece, mostly because I really like the look, and secondly because it was half off on Black Friday.<br /><br />So here is what the resin looked liked naked. I found no mold lines and the only bubbles were tiny and on the bottom where no one will ever see them.<br />
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After a nice bath in warm water and Dawn dish soap to remove any leftover mold release, it was time to prime. I used Badger Stylrenze black primer on this (like everything else really), and let the primer cure for 24 hours. I then used Vallejo - Game Color Pure White to zenithal highlight before painting. I love this technique as it shows you right were your highlights and shadows need to be.<br /></div>
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I started with the roof. I wanted to achieve an almost thatch feel to it, even though it's set up as wooden boards I figured the same type of coloration would really add to the overall look. For this, I started with Vallejo Model Color - German Camo - Medium Brown. for the exposed boards under the roof I used P3 Bloodstone. I carried the same color for the exposed wood on the sides of the house in these same colors. For the stone, I started with 3:1 Vallejo Model Color - Black Grey: to Vallejo Game Color - Stone Grey. I worked it up from there to a dry brush of 1:1 in the same colors.<br /><br />
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After that t was time for the first wash. I used a basic wash of GW - Agrax Eathshade. On a model I'd generally use an oil wash, but this is a terrain piece and frankly, I didn't feel like varnishing and waiting and redoing the varnish etc.<br />
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After that, it basically became a matter of finishing up the details. I do want to speak to the windows as this was something completely new to me. I wanted to give it a reflective look but knew a metallic paint would not work. I found a solution by starting with P3 - Menoth White Highlight, and then glazing with Army Painter - Blue ink. I am really happy with the result. I think it gives it a good depth of color and a bit of a reflective look without overpowering the metal details in the windows. The windows metals and the door hinges were done with P3 - Pig Iron.<br /><br />And here is the final product. I am really happy with this one. Please leave a comment and let me know what you think.<br />
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<br />FltMedichttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09931211461270538814noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3126386451712044476.post-30843809063296954742017-12-02T00:09:00.000-05:002017-12-02T00:09:14.044-05:00Company of Iron - The Start of Something Fun and Interesting.<br /><br />For those that don't know CoI is a new skirmish level game from Privateer Press. It looks like a ton of fun and only uses about 10-15 models per side.<br />
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I've been pining for a game like this and the best part is that most of the existing models in the PP line up are legal to use in game. I'm hoping that with as low as the model count is I will see many more fully painted armies (well squads really) across the table.<br />
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With that in mind I picked up the box set and the special model that came in the new No Quarter magazine. The model is Eilish (something or other) and it's a pretty cool model. It's got a very D&D type feel to it and I wanted to play with colors like Purple.<br />
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For a free with magazine model the thing was fairly good quality casting. Think better than Bones and not quite GW hard plastic. It primed well and I was off to the races.<br />
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I also decided to use a resin base on this one as I wanted to play a bit with clear resin. I chose a swamp base for this and I think it came out well. I'm really happy with the color scheme I used. The main colors were P3 Pig Iron, Reaper - Russian WWII Olive, and Vallejo Game Color Warlock Purple.<br />
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<br />FltMedichttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09931211461270538814noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3126386451712044476.post-59155393416788345682017-10-01T20:44:00.000-04:002017-10-01T20:44:02.333-04:00Well Borka is finally done!<br />
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I had a rare few hours today to actually get some painting done. I know it was strange being able to sit down, clear my mind, clean my brushes and actually paint!.<br />
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I'd love to give you my normal breakdown on what paints I used/mixed to get the colors I did. I honestly didn't take the time to write them down. I will say that I broke out the Scale 75 paints to do the leathers. This is the first time I've used them, and I am happy to report that the do live up to the hype.<br />
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So with out further ado....... I give you Borka!<br />
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<br /><br />FltMedichttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09931211461270538814noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3126386451712044476.post-12773709741365098762017-09-02T08:37:00.000-04:002017-09-02T08:37:23.824-04:00Borka Bust 2.0<br />
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Well I finally had a little bit of time to work on this one. I love the simplicity of the sculpt. It's not that it lacks detail, it just does the job without an inane amount of filigree and other silly stuff like ropes made out of skulls and other non-sense we tend to see on models.<br />
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Anywho.... For this model I've used the SOTAR 20/20 and the more I use it the more I fall in love with the thing, but that's a story for another blog post. I started the skin tone with P3 -Troll Blood Base. Then moved on to the leather and fur collar. I set down a base of Scale 75 - Red Leather. This is the first time I have had a chance to use the Scale 75 paints and they are just smooth and cover well through the airbrush. For the fur on the coat I used Scale 75 - Blond. For the shoulder armor I covered it in Vallejo Model Air - Steel. I had hoped that was gonna be a bit darker but it shines so bright, so I'll have to knock that down a bit.<br />
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Well ya made it through all words, so have some pictures.<br />
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<br />FltMedichttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09931211461270538814noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3126386451712044476.post-18884694427404610662017-08-27T21:35:00.000-04:002017-08-27T21:35:16.298-04:00Borka Kegslayer.<br />
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Well Privateer Press did it again. Another fantastic bust came out at Gen Con. This time a Troll Blood. Well I've never actually painted a troll so I figured why not? It's a bust, it's a troll, it seems like a really fun sculpt..... and Bob's yer uncle!<br />
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For those unfamiliar with the Bust here is the box art.<br />
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The resin is the normal PP stuff, its hell to remove mold lines from with anything other than file rods (those awesome things from Tamiya). There was a good bit of flash and vent resin left over on this one. </div>
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<br /><br /><br />Sadly There was also a bit of mold slip, which I apparently did not manage to get a picture of... and a few small bubbles on the back of the head behind the quills (which will fill in just fine with primer).<br />
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I did set a pin in the shoulder for the armor, more out of habit than anything else. Ok to be honest I started drilling before thinking....<br />
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Well now it's all primed up and ready to get going. Just gotta wait for the primer to cure.<br /><br />FltMedichttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09931211461270538814noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3126386451712044476.post-8219597109200321732017-08-05T22:57:00.000-04:002017-08-05T22:57:34.244-04:00Nemo 5.0<br />
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Well It was more work time on the Nemo bust. I continued to work on the skin, more and more glazing to get the shading and highlighting right. I'm happy with where the skin tone is now. I tried something different and funky with the eyes on this one. I went all "Storm" and tried to get a glow from the eyes, like there was some kind of magic happening. I'm not sure if I like it or not, so we shall see if it stays of if I blow it out and redo it normally.<br /><br />Other than that, highlights were added to the golds, the purple and the silvers. a bit of wash was applied strategically on the armor. and well here are the pics.<br />
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<br />FltMedichttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09931211461270538814noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3126386451712044476.post-72263883172500988092017-08-01T22:01:00.000-04:002017-08-01T22:01:22.079-04:00Nemo 4.0<br />
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This one is slowly coming along. Tonight I was able to put a bit of time in on the face, hair, and metals.<br />
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The skin tones are coming along, I think I may have over did the highlights a bit, so I will have to go back and blend them in so that it becomes a smooth transition. Also looks like I need to add higher highlights on the hair based on the pictures it looks to be blending in. Aside from that I'm really happy with how the metals are turning out. The P3 pig iron on the screws looks really good with the rust. I still need to highlight up and blend into black in spots. The rust and metal mix looks better than I had imagined it would at this stage.<br />
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So yea lots more to do before school starts back up in a few weeks.<br />
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<br />FltMedichttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09931211461270538814noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3126386451712044476.post-23808717352486878722017-07-21T20:46:00.000-04:002017-07-21T20:46:04.787-04:00Nemo part 3.<br />
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Well things are moving along with this bust. I'm still happily surprised with how smooth and almost easy it is to paint this thing. The lines are just nice and crisp, the edges are defined well. I kinda wish everything was as nice to paint as this one.<br />
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With that all out of the way, lets get down to some painting.<br />
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I started by grabbing the silly putty to mask off the face. I used a sculpting tool to push the putty away from the face and into the crevasses so that I had a clear shot to the face with the airbrush. It's almost funny how much it looks like a shroud.<br />
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After that I used Reaper Masters Series Olive Drab as the base color for the skin tone. Then moved on to a glaze of Reaper Masters Series Tanned Flesh. After that dried I hit it with the Tanned Flesh Highlight (again watered down to a glaze). </div>
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Up next will be to darken the shaded parts of the face and bring up the highlights a bit more, but that's all for the next installment. </div>
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<br />FltMedichttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09931211461270538814noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3126386451712044476.post-76266856913440115332017-07-19T01:15:00.000-04:002017-07-19T01:15:45.875-04:00Nemo part 2.5 - The re-rusting.<br />
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If you don't take pictures while working I'd implore you to start. It's amazing what you can see when you take a step back and literally look through a lens at your work. I did just this with the Nemo bust and realized that I was not happy with the chipping. It looked too uniform and forced and needed fixing. So I went back with a hard bristle tooth brush some water and ice in my veins to set things right.<br />
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I think this looks much better now.<br />
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<br />FltMedichttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09931211461270538814noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3126386451712044476.post-79307020976593214982017-07-15T16:44:00.000-04:002017-07-15T16:44:00.493-04:00Nemo part 2.<br />
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Just a quick update this time. I have started to work on the chipping. I'm pretty happy with the left shoulder but the right looks a bit too regular. Other than that it will soon be time to add a bit of oil wash to "run" down from the rust spots, and them on to working the face.<br />
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<br />FltMedichttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09931211461270538814noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3126386451712044476.post-75107615895320820722017-07-06T13:01:00.000-04:002017-07-06T13:01:15.789-04:00Nemo update 1.<br />
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Well this guy is coming along nicely. I decided that the end goal is going to look as though Nemo has seen some better days. With that in mind I started out with a rust under coat. I'll be using the hair spray technique on this one. I feel that it gives a real feel with depth to the rust and pitting in the armor.<br />
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Here you can see that I started with a base brown and worked up different spots to almost an orange. It's important to vary the colors of your browns as it is both visually stimulating and mimics what rust actually looks like.<br />
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Next up was a heavy layer of gloss varnish. This is important. It needs to be heavy to protect the rust layer for whats to come down the road.<br />
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After the varnish had time to cure (about 8 hours) It was time to coat the model in hair spray. As I've said time and again, you must use the cheap stuff. Aqua Net all the way. Don't go and steal your significant others (or even your own) fancy smells good stuff. We need the cheap stuff that almost instantly activates when wet.<br />
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I let the hairspray dry overnight. While it does not require anywhere near that long to dry I was tires and hit the sack.<br />
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Next up it was time to base coat. The standard paint job for this sculpt and pretty much all Cygnar is blue..... I am not going blue. It's just boring to me. I wanted an almost yellowish green look for this one and started with a nice base coat. One thing to keep in mind is that the hairspray will activate with water. So when working over it you must keep moving your airbrush and build up the layers slowly. This takes time but it is worth it. With the base coat laid down It was time to apply the highlights. I basically took my base coat and added white till I was happy that there would be enough contrast and even help bring out a bit of shadow.<br />
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And not it's time to let everything dry. Next up will be paint chipping and weathering around the rust. </div>
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<br />FltMedichttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09931211461270538814noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3126386451712044476.post-5480250015101389802017-07-03T22:42:00.000-04:002017-07-03T22:42:13.687-04:00General Adept Sebastian Nemo!<br />
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I think it's time to bring out this bad boy. This was the Gen Con bust that Privateer Press released last year. He's been sitting on the shelf a while. I've never done a bust from PP before, but having worked with plenty of their regular models I was a bit nervous to crack the box open. PP likes to use resin and PVC plastic. Anyone who has had the displeasure of working with PVC knows just how frustrating and time consuming it is to get mold lines and imperfections out of the material. You can't really use a hobby knife as the stuff forms long strands and gets really weak and likes to peal like an apple. Using a metal file is a no go as the stuff likes to shred. I have found that the Tamia (sic?) file sticks work well on PVC but take a while to get it filed down right.<br />
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So after all of that I opened the box.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNU39pmI8aBK-E1suvgBvJf3g5o1Lt6r_FhNOVrRpH6GVVOOZQnpFcpm6Xj-UlDD4GR4SRxhPQHdvZyVgT3IzovdXt79MZMqStbd6m-d1z6edxbg5G-DcuxciAKuVqfTyteKyVduwaiq0/s1600/IMG_20170703_215010.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNU39pmI8aBK-E1suvgBvJf3g5o1Lt6r_FhNOVrRpH6GVVOOZQnpFcpm6Xj-UlDD4GR4SRxhPQHdvZyVgT3IzovdXt79MZMqStbd6m-d1z6edxbg5G-DcuxciAKuVqfTyteKyVduwaiq0/s320/IMG_20170703_215010.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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I was quite surprised at just how clean the model was right out of the gate. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZsco_Aa5rXK46lOFM_R7dyTNdysjfBgGlgICpf2nh-pXbgIae8FlfiKRyC-6ITW5gAn2kfv4Mk8Suj3te0xE4lCYBwJYFHEpVuaTuOmNwxRdupzQEMx-a3yS8Urw7WK3b9a8LBeUGFtw/s1600/IMG_20170703_215105.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZsco_Aa5rXK46lOFM_R7dyTNdysjfBgGlgICpf2nh-pXbgIae8FlfiKRyC-6ITW5gAn2kfv4Mk8Suj3te0xE4lCYBwJYFHEpVuaTuOmNwxRdupzQEMx-a3yS8Urw7WK3b9a8LBeUGFtw/s320/IMG_20170703_215105.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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You can see that there is very little to clean up on the front side. Just a bit of flash right under the lower belly. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiQsf2lMqCJ54FfBAHOffjGQgL_k1RmgfJpVFSXvrNiAobA_O7qXgbuX99U1txtSgiKPIuH1RmPwMua49qImbI4STtu60jIfyKFsZMZzb0EpfE52O0zxcJDq7uun2xgfLiX4ZP3l5uqxE/s1600/IMG_20170703_215130.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiQsf2lMqCJ54FfBAHOffjGQgL_k1RmgfJpVFSXvrNiAobA_O7qXgbuX99U1txtSgiKPIuH1RmPwMua49qImbI4STtu60jIfyKFsZMZzb0EpfE52O0zxcJDq7uun2xgfLiX4ZP3l5uqxE/s320/IMG_20170703_215130.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5Duuj_c70huJk23EQmXXqLi7i4-cJP8-fvMXs9G-JPRtmSeGJKOXyyh-uqghVjpydoFoadiFN8rJikVMWjtRldUG7si-fzgmZiZ2BRflYnd52Jpn5u-yjiTjaSq3RZWdVuklOEEixJLg/s1600/IMG_20170703_215113.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5Duuj_c70huJk23EQmXXqLi7i4-cJP8-fvMXs9G-JPRtmSeGJKOXyyh-uqghVjpydoFoadiFN8rJikVMWjtRldUG7si-fzgmZiZ2BRflYnd52Jpn5u-yjiTjaSq3RZWdVuklOEEixJLg/s320/IMG_20170703_215113.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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On the back between the shoulders was a vent that needed to be cut off and sanded down. Other than that there was a very slight mold line on the top of the coil sticking out above his head. </div>
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The shoulder things are another matter. These had really bad mold lines on the under side. I can forgive this as its going to sit flush against the model (and do not really need to be added in any case). </div>
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All in all this looks like it is going to be a really fun project to work on over the next few weeks.<br /><br />As a side note. I'll be testing out the new SOTAR 2020 on this one. So bonus right? </div>
<br />FltMedichttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09931211461270538814noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3126386451712044476.post-16646212230522549002017-07-01T22:33:00.000-04:002017-07-01T22:33:40.969-04:00The new Behemoth!<br /><br />Well Privateer Press actually managed to really impress me with an updated version of a classic model. The old Behemoth was clunky and top heavy with tiny legs (think body builder who skips leg day). When the new model came out I was a bit skeptical of replacing my already bought and painted version, however fate intervened and my old model decided that even with pins it was time for the metal twigs it called legs to let go.<br />
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So here we are with the new and improved Big B. I love the way it protrudes bulk. They really nailed it on the head with the proportions and really looks menacing. When I think of a giant stompy robot in a steampunk setting this is most definitely what my mind goes to.<br />
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Without further ado I give you my version of the Behemoth (also scroll through the pics for a look at the old one).<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4FyWfJc08K_ixPeZJMEc9uSSDr7Q7031Z2hSYS2hUBq-CKIk1urgId-5xYWthEY2ymz7VWMG_-YvnhNdSDgwMfINyQEGUVMg0TfFdwwtczufrSndLCAGNnBp9OlFJUGMn8jAz3yyaozI/s1600/Big+B+Done+Better-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="942" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4FyWfJc08K_ixPeZJMEc9uSSDr7Q7031Z2hSYS2hUBq-CKIk1urgId-5xYWthEY2ymz7VWMG_-YvnhNdSDgwMfINyQEGUVMg0TfFdwwtczufrSndLCAGNnBp9OlFJUGMn8jAz3yyaozI/s320/Big+B+Done+Better-2.jpg" width="301" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPxUrh-NPfKvr4nGmQO6tLRNGA16NVHIp6mwyQhWECKtC3zljK3WaqfOOKtwlzLD6mktgYShOigRORi4cBH-mUTtZZQGbJ1CWLZszYwCAzd0wvgpl824d7jeYlUWoRP74Sq9HV5t4XsnU/s1600/Big+B+Done+Better-3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="939" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPxUrh-NPfKvr4nGmQO6tLRNGA16NVHIp6mwyQhWECKtC3zljK3WaqfOOKtwlzLD6mktgYShOigRORi4cBH-mUTtZZQGbJ1CWLZszYwCAzd0wvgpl824d7jeYlUWoRP74Sq9HV5t4XsnU/s320/Big+B+Done+Better-3.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYXiZvxBzzhguAei_yL_8eK-UvAz1NXQCZHAoUUr2xo-oi5Ohyphenhyphene-sdfO3xDeD0XVKTCZQSJmVasIrOJCeR6yEm7YmgCQObVO2eIY9rV4Ibh4SlsRWyMVyVZ6XYsXFjK-xCZKqmqQe-nEU/s1600/Big+B+Done+Better-4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="929" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYXiZvxBzzhguAei_yL_8eK-UvAz1NXQCZHAoUUr2xo-oi5Ohyphenhyphene-sdfO3xDeD0XVKTCZQSJmVasIrOJCeR6yEm7YmgCQObVO2eIY9rV4Ibh4SlsRWyMVyVZ6XYsXFjK-xCZKqmqQe-nEU/s320/Big+B+Done+Better-4.jpg" width="297" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMW-_f54Yz2T7v3stV7fZNzkWfdARCnVfJC1w8jSEVHaypCkaqSzaBKf-TlKaeosPDLIu1UDTypI45YzQQIZLrZfra4TlxabGGUlz3cdbz2KZTs4C5p6VrcnOu1gJuhkiUsPDrLaRlF4Y/s1600/Big+B+Done+Better-5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="902" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMW-_f54Yz2T7v3stV7fZNzkWfdARCnVfJC1w8jSEVHaypCkaqSzaBKf-TlKaeosPDLIu1UDTypI45YzQQIZLrZfra4TlxabGGUlz3cdbz2KZTs4C5p6VrcnOu1gJuhkiUsPDrLaRlF4Y/s320/Big+B+Done+Better-5.jpg" width="288" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsnQvWz0Mo9oLmRFKiZOl4HDunzboBGBM0vMRhPWTVPWkvHhrWm97UylRleV3Rfjvf9PjyvaSKvOioRRTFLDaogI6qI-qHWRHxp3Ubz0DRqHtFimMpBEwPK5ThZc0dEGeNAx6dPcSd1Q8/s1600/Big+B+Done+Better-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="997" data-original-width="1000" height="319" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsnQvWz0Mo9oLmRFKiZOl4HDunzboBGBM0vMRhPWTVPWkvHhrWm97UylRleV3Rfjvf9PjyvaSKvOioRRTFLDaogI6qI-qHWRHxp3Ubz0DRqHtFimMpBEwPK5ThZc0dEGeNAx6dPcSd1Q8/s320/Big+B+Done+Better-1.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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And as mentioned above here is my old one. Please note this is before I had a light box or a real camera or really knew what I was doing when painting.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirNZ_HgB6TvQBL8l0x-uQp0jZTdI5Z2L98w59XnpSPM4n70-0s13tZGTFj17DwxF7jpolXaZPPXL1nzA3T650ooqC98kOM6NRBQBvbNn1zm7Vix1-AoUVlJep-kWcEemPC36u4Qdwsgjw/s1600/Big+B.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1066" data-original-width="800" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirNZ_HgB6TvQBL8l0x-uQp0jZTdI5Z2L98w59XnpSPM4n70-0s13tZGTFj17DwxF7jpolXaZPPXL1nzA3T650ooqC98kOM6NRBQBvbNn1zm7Vix1-AoUVlJep-kWcEemPC36u4Qdwsgjw/s320/Big+B.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
<br />FltMedichttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09931211461270538814noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3126386451712044476.post-38952381815366955552017-06-17T16:44:00.000-04:002017-06-17T16:44:06.892-04:00A wild post appears!<br />
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Let me start off with a BIG apology. It's been about 5 months since my last post, and for that I am truly sorry. I can give you all kinds of excuses but hey I'm back and I have all summer to post pictures and paint models. So let the shenanigans begin.<br />
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To start, here is the Khador Conquest. I did this in my normal Inks first style. It was a bit more of a challenge as the larger the model the more light has to "hit" it. It took a few tries to get the shading and highlights to where I was happy with them. Other than that a large model like this is pretty much the same. Make sure your paint is thin and work in coats.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9a5DKBaigOs2zl_sX3F0ZxDWAi87cboIpeLE42I9YsvW1yvvBibC_sKsFr9ZEQzrTETrRHqAlTvVVmuIMbLtrVcFBQ3YJRgjD4tk3HEIJprJRvro3-2cKuVxm9WbrdLHieQFjWIqD75A/s1600/Conquest+New-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="825" data-original-width="1000" height="264" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9a5DKBaigOs2zl_sX3F0ZxDWAi87cboIpeLE42I9YsvW1yvvBibC_sKsFr9ZEQzrTETrRHqAlTvVVmuIMbLtrVcFBQ3YJRgjD4tk3HEIJprJRvro3-2cKuVxm9WbrdLHieQFjWIqD75A/s320/Conquest+New-1.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Then for run I did up an older metal Khador Destroyer for fun. I did this one in about 2 hours. Nothing special just wanted a quick project to work on in a color other than red. </div>
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Up next was the Khador Grolar. I tried something different and went with a high contrast between the Red and bright Green. I like it. If you look carefully at the shield on the right arm you will notice some purple and blue inks in an attempt to make the gold look a bit more tarnished. </div>
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<br />FltMedichttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09931211461270538814noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3126386451712044476.post-65082146953169329142017-02-19T23:20:00.000-05:002017-02-19T23:20:57.667-05:00Some much needed Red.<br />
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Hey there folks. I got a bit of time tonight to work on the bust. I was able to start on the red metallic of the shoulder armor. I started by masking off the skin with Silly Putty. That might sound weird but it's a fantastic way to mask, it does not leave any residue and is really easy to get into cracks and crevasse. More importantly it is easy to remove with no issues.<br />
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I started with Vallejo Model Air - Steel which is a bit bright for what I normally use but for this I want it to stick out a bit more before bringing it down with glazes later. Once that was dry I used P3 - Red ink and did a nice fine layer leaving most of the metallic shine.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgl-uLng7IenhtZFJw_wO433xEidWOWm8UxAjEztjLOS-arvs4Vu0OGxYBQQC4pgHSU51QA31kCjFnF_f3quXjR0RVL48cG6Xv_dfKc2XbaY16_wQYw1OIikadpiVTzHPs14mY8OdC6Dyc/s1600/Red+Armour2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgl-uLng7IenhtZFJw_wO433xEidWOWm8UxAjEztjLOS-arvs4Vu0OGxYBQQC4pgHSU51QA31kCjFnF_f3quXjR0RVL48cG6Xv_dfKc2XbaY16_wQYw1OIikadpiVTzHPs14mY8OdC6Dyc/s320/Red+Armour2.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Then it was time for the gloss coat to seal in the freshness.<br />
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I had a bit more time so I spent the next 2 hours building this guy. It's the latest large model for Khador from Privateer Press and is also totally in hard plastic on sprue. Which was nice but a heck of a lot of pieces for one large model.<br />
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<br />FltMedichttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09931211461270538814noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3126386451712044476.post-10755507454862569662017-02-05T18:11:00.000-05:002017-02-05T18:11:56.792-05:00Busting out!<br />
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Ok silly title aside.... I got a bit of work done on the orc bust today.<br />
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The first thing to do was set up where I wanted the highlights to be, for a model this size I really just used where the light fell on the model, which made it rather easy. I used Vallejo Game Color - Pure White for this one. I figured with the greens and yellows that were to be applied I did not want to go with a rosy skin town for the highlights.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhb_RgdhChgWa9mW097iNqOzzM3Qh5Yn3DmG-70NS_QRul_ErMYWGK4ezKsnpW0VLddiQLSzgH86MFF_JyT1VRQLkNL7-i-K3IAk3NaS4ymdjUrvEJy3Ze1DXI0OuRqVzuEUEMz6-69SV0/s1600/Under+highlights+1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhb_RgdhChgWa9mW097iNqOzzM3Qh5Yn3DmG-70NS_QRul_ErMYWGK4ezKsnpW0VLddiQLSzgH86MFF_JyT1VRQLkNL7-i-K3IAk3NaS4ymdjUrvEJy3Ze1DXI0OuRqVzuEUEMz6-69SV0/s320/Under+highlights+1.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgumO-xqJRe4yszCAmxWd1jSMKzLrAmRZUSnapTbKzlefaVRps52D51V2QbjXq1drH-H6mmLdH7z1A_Rhqdy0QYBll_xZbHsnP7bUkeRuH81blPkt9V691UlZjiG31NP0WLukPcaMEoMkE/s1600/Under+highlights+2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgumO-xqJRe4yszCAmxWd1jSMKzLrAmRZUSnapTbKzlefaVRps52D51V2QbjXq1drH-H6mmLdH7z1A_Rhqdy0QYBll_xZbHsnP7bUkeRuH81blPkt9V691UlZjiG31NP0WLukPcaMEoMkE/s320/Under+highlights+2.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgv6viNnelgH2E-hd2RRqsQy0CPoOl9jHUZcngoOvQB_QIbgb_Rn0afv8Wqrj_mSqqwbZ0vrjzD1CzHbWurTkpmuXMzMH0gZNbyyi19Qk3Ux2wtOtTpm9loUkVQUY1fO2bAzMIITsy86LE/s1600/Under+highlights+3.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgv6viNnelgH2E-hd2RRqsQy0CPoOl9jHUZcngoOvQB_QIbgb_Rn0afv8Wqrj_mSqqwbZ0vrjzD1CzHbWurTkpmuXMzMH0gZNbyyi19Qk3Ux2wtOtTpm9loUkVQUY1fO2bAzMIITsy86LE/s320/Under+highlights+3.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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Once that was dry it was time for the first ink layer. For this I used FW Artists inks - Green. Using the airbrush set at a low psi (about 8) I started just moving it around till I got the saturation I was looking for. The hard part is to get coverage without going too dark and covering up the highlights while making sure you get full coverage on the model. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhM0aYj4o0BKo_gZLbQrpqtOZIJd3tSNV-htUMq1wwxrXLY1gC3WwspHiJ83jjTPKuEB5uvC6fdZkBgZdmY8NprHQPAkkY8EQ08ryyWUlS-ZKKlSaWVGvbB0TRHP-JgYYgsnKsnfOzXxX0/s1600/first+green+2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhM0aYj4o0BKo_gZLbQrpqtOZIJd3tSNV-htUMq1wwxrXLY1gC3WwspHiJ83jjTPKuEB5uvC6fdZkBgZdmY8NprHQPAkkY8EQ08ryyWUlS-ZKKlSaWVGvbB0TRHP-JgYYgsnKsnfOzXxX0/s320/first+green+2.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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This is what it looked like after the first green was applied. You can see that there is a bit of highlight and some dark but it's not terribly differentiated. Again I used the Pure white to touch up the highlights </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0GbYCpXK-6OAd0lVH7T89qWYv9n648HLvOnaythRTHmO3Sclp_Avbok8zHGU9891_h0vDnS16GK9Uu67iiqRLd8KoZCyrWkTDc3Qjdg5PbFPE4qD9kfL5p3f-rVgyMiUWnsYzYyLdhnI/s1600/Second+layer+Highlight.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0GbYCpXK-6OAd0lVH7T89qWYv9n648HLvOnaythRTHmO3Sclp_Avbok8zHGU9891_h0vDnS16GK9Uu67iiqRLd8KoZCyrWkTDc3Qjdg5PbFPE4qD9kfL5p3f-rVgyMiUWnsYzYyLdhnI/s320/Second+layer+Highlight.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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Then it was time to apply the second layer of green. I wanted something a bit lighter than just a standard green so I mixed FW- Yellow with the FW-Green and thinned it to just about a water consistency. Which leaves us here. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWL6PHPQl_pX2IHyCeagzRja6C8QsXBZqtH7sBka3aZv-b1b6pyQ3cneMFxMFUQNRDtLftTdTqmSiD1oNqLd4fHdAZwlksvmdd2KNbVPhXquPq3ACJVfbKaxh8_Qyf7tIxqbPYicp4i_o/s1600/Second+Layer+Green+2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWL6PHPQl_pX2IHyCeagzRja6C8QsXBZqtH7sBka3aZv-b1b6pyQ3cneMFxMFUQNRDtLftTdTqmSiD1oNqLd4fHdAZwlksvmdd2KNbVPhXquPq3ACJVfbKaxh8_Qyf7tIxqbPYicp4i_o/s320/Second+Layer+Green+2.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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After that it was time to put on the first coat of Gloss Varnish and let it cure over night. </div>
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Oh and I did a bit of work on the hair. Which if we are honest kinda looks like a red worm right now......</div>
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<br />FltMedichttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09931211461270538814noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3126386451712044476.post-88749404845542498982017-01-31T00:18:00.000-05:002017-01-31T00:18:02.796-05:00Day 2 of the bust.<br />
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So the build went well, and it was time to prime. And oh man did I prime. It took a full cup on my Patriot 105 to prime this guy. For this one I am using the Badger Stylrenz black primer. I switched over from Vallejo Surface Primer a few models back and it's like night and day. The difference is like when you go from a rattle can primer to an airbrush primer if that tells you anything about how good this stuff is.<br />
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The lessons learned on this day are a few. First and foremost the bust is too big for a normal holder. As it has that bit of round at the bottom I figured it would suffice. Well...... not so much. The bust is a bit heavy on top and it made maneuvering a bit wonky. You will also notice that I went ahead and attached the shoulder piece to the bust. I debated painting it as a separate piece but the way the angels come together it made more sense to go ahead and just put it together first. I did leave the hair off as it is going to be a nice bright red and I figure it will be much easier to just slide it into the slot later and not have to worry about over spray or under spray with taping.<br />
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The next step will be to go a head and add the under highlights. As this one is going to be a sickly green I am going to deviate a bit from my standard. I'll be using a series of whites and yellows for the undertones which should (in theory) set up a really nice nasty green when I shoot the green ink onto it.<br />
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So here it is. All black primed and curing over night.<br />
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<br />FltMedichttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09931211461270538814noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3126386451712044476.post-63589954378016803302017-01-29T17:57:00.000-05:002017-01-29T17:57:14.271-05:00Punching out of my weight class - The start of an 18cm bust!<br />
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Giorgos Tsougkouzidis is an amazing sculptor out of Greece. I happened across his models and had to have one. For those interested you can find him here:<br />
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http://www.imgrum.net/user/giorgos_tsougkouzidis/2253023608/1311791958549379051_2253023608<br />
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It took about 3 weeks for the package to arrive to the US. It was well packed and nothing was broken when it got here. The kit comes in three pieces which was quite the surprise for something this big. The mold lines and clean up were minimal as you will see in the pictures below. Just to put it into perspective there were less mold lines on this than your typical Privateer Press model, and about the same as a regular Space Marine! The casting is crisp and the detail is just astounding.<br />
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I spent about an hour getting the mold lines off and pinning the shoulder to the body. I had debated painting it separately but decided I'd rather work on the piece as a whole.<br />
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Up next is priming and getting some inks on this bad boy. This looks to be like a project that is going to take a lot of time, thank the Lord for airbrushes!<br />
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Here you can see that it's just three pieces</div>
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Even the inside of the mouth is detailed!</div>
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Just a bit of mold line on this one. </div>
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Here is a good shot for scale. The model on the left is a standard 28mm model.</div>
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And here is is with the shoulder attached. You can see that it's balanced really well. </div>
<br />FltMedichttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09931211461270538814noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3126386451712044476.post-76922258698082243912017-01-18T00:17:00.000-05:002017-01-18T00:17:04.247-05:00A new year and a finished Sigmarine.<br />
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Well school is still in full effect (as well as work, and family life), but I was able to carve a few hours out and actually get some painting done. My goal for the year is to get the Warhammer Quest box set painted as well as the Super Dungeon Explorer box and the Rivet Wars set (can you see a pattern emerging?).<br />
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So with that in mind I figured I could at least knock out the first model and get the snow ball rolling. Here is the Sigmarine. I really like the gold, blue and red color scheme. And I have decided that yellow will be on every model in the box as a tie in. So here ya go. I hope you enjoy it as much as I did when painting the model.<br />
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<br />FltMedichttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09931211461270538814noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3126386451712044476.post-42302199935022918222016-12-20T23:32:00.001-05:002016-12-20T23:34:21.762-05:00Warhammer Quest - The start of a journey though a box.<br />
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I was given a copy of this set a few months back and have had no time to paint. I've been counting down the weeks till the end of the semester. So as it's Finals Week and I have only two left I figured after a day of reading and review for 8 hours I deserved to treat myself to some painting.<br />
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It's been a while since I've worked on a GW model and frankly it's a bit weird. I'm so used to metal or resin models that these things just feel like nothing in the hand (think ice cream cone vs cotton candy). It is kinda nice that they stay on holders with just a small bit of blue tac though.<br />
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Anyway I am starting with the Knight thing and what I thought were blue and pink horrors, I looked back at the box AFTER getting the pink where I wanted it to realize that these are actually also blues so they will have to be changed.<br />
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So stay tuned. The blog is back, the updates will be regular and my goal is to knock out the 40ish models in the box over Christmas break!<br />
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Here have some extremely early WIP pics.<br />
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<br />FltMedichttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09931211461270538814noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3126386451712044476.post-67955533506681484212016-12-18T10:24:00.001-05:002016-12-18T10:24:26.521-05:00Hassle Free Miniatures - Ya'll gotta get some of these!<br /><br />It had been pointed out by a friend that I had never painted up a miniature for an RPG game. I stopped and thought about it and well yea... I have painted hordes of Space Marines, Tanks, Knights, Warmachine models, all kinds of table top stuff but never anything for D&D or Pathfinder etc.<br />
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I knew it was time to fix that. I started looking around this big ole interwebs, and found the model I wanted. I had heard of Hassle Free Miniatures but had never ordered from them as they are in the UK and well shipping to the colonies can be expensive. I was surprised to find that not only was the model I wanted really reasonably priced but the shipping was as well. It took about 4 weeks to get her but that was fine. With school in full swing I didn't really have time to work on a new project anyway. When my package showed up I was excited to see the model in real life. I was happy to see that the model arrived intact and well packed, but they had also included a second model as an apology for taking so long (I hadn't noticed the delay) and some fun English candies! I mean that's just awesome, right?<br />
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So here is this barbarian dude I painted up, The model's casting was fantastic I found 2 mold lines, no where near any detail, The fact that this model was a single cast speaks volumes to the experience Hassle Free has and the model painted up easily and quickly.<br />
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So if you're looking for something fun and different to paint up give them a look.<br /><br /><a href="http://www.hfminis.co.uk/">http://www.hfminis.co.uk/</a><br />
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And now that you are done with the reading part, here is the eye candy.<br />
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<br />FltMedichttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09931211461270538814noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3126386451712044476.post-5762626482970937282016-12-06T23:43:00.001-05:002016-12-06T23:43:47.925-05:00I'm Back.....................................!<br />
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So nursing school is quite literally the time suck from hell, with all the reading, and studying and doing of papers, it really has killed my hobby time.<br />
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So with the semester coming up shortly to the end I am starting to see little rays of sunshine through the end of the tunnel (let's hope it's not just a train!).<br />
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I decided that I could take a few nights to paint and man was it so nice to slide into the chair, dust off some brushes and get to painting.<br />
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I did up a GW model as I haven't worked on one in ages. I don't know what this thing is but I am sure one of you fine readers will be able to tell me in the comments. As it did not take terribly long to finish I also knocked out a Privateer Press model for the heck of it.<br />
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Well OK, Have some pics, I have to go study.<br />
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<br />FltMedichttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09931211461270538814noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3126386451712044476.post-47616258880793334762016-10-31T18:39:00.000-04:002016-10-31T18:39:23.418-04:00Warmachine Weekend will be shortly upon us!<br />
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WMW is kinda my Christmas. It's the one convention I get to go to per year. It's small enough to not be completely overwhelming (under 1000 people) and big enough to have that con feel.<br />
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This year we have an amazing array of painters, modelers, airbrush artists and yours truly lined up to add a ton of value to the Hobby Lounge.<br />
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Not to mention the main gaming hall will be filled with games and at night the board games and booze will be a flowing. So if your in the St Louis area come on down and say high!<br />
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Oh and for those that want to know more. Here is the link to the con.<br />
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http://warmachineweekend.com/FltMedichttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09931211461270538814noreply@blogger.com0