I was on a podcast!
I want to give a huge shout out to the good folks over at Skirmish Supremacy. They had me on as a guest and we discussed aspects of commission painting, painting in general, how to stay motivated and how to improve your painting.
Give it a listen and let us know how it went.
http://www.podcasts.com/skirmish-supremacy-390d39dc6/episode/Skirmish-Supremacy-Episode-28-Flight-Medic-Painting-with-Robert-Darefsky-3b75
Friday, August 12, 2016
Friday, August 5, 2016
Kommander Harkevich - The Iron Wolf.
Well some of us are not at Gen Con, and still have painting to get done. I have always liked this model and like so many others before it had never really had a reason to get it painted. Now I am kicking myself a bit because of how much fun and how seemingly easy it was to get him looking good. As a side note this one came together pretty quickly. I think I did this in less than 4 hours. So score.
Ok enough talk look at the shiny pictures.....
Well some of us are not at Gen Con, and still have painting to get done. I have always liked this model and like so many others before it had never really had a reason to get it painted. Now I am kicking myself a bit because of how much fun and how seemingly easy it was to get him looking good. As a side note this one came together pretty quickly. I think I did this in less than 4 hours. So score.
Ok enough talk look at the shiny pictures.....
Wednesday, August 3, 2016
August Commissions.
Well folks. I have gone and busted up my knee.....again. So it looks like I will be out of a day job for at least the next month (or maybe more).
With that said I have plenty of time on my hands to paint up commissions, So send me an email at
FlightMedicPaints@gmail.com
And not only will I paint up your plastic crack, I'll do it at a pretty substantial discount to my normal pricing.
So act fast, as this I'm sure this will fill up quick.
Well folks. I have gone and busted up my knee.....again. So it looks like I will be out of a day job for at least the next month (or maybe more).
With that said I have plenty of time on my hands to paint up commissions, So send me an email at
FlightMedicPaints@gmail.com
And not only will I paint up your plastic crack, I'll do it at a pretty substantial discount to my normal pricing.
So act fast, as this I'm sure this will fill up quick.
Sunday, July 31, 2016
Don't leave your War Jack out in the snow.
I'm not the biggest fan of seeing a whole army full of weathered, chipped, and beaten up equipment. Real armies in the real world meticulously maintain their weapons (else they stop working). That being said, we paint and play with toys and whimsy so it's all good to have something all beaten down by time.
Taking that into account I wanted to do something completely different from what I have been working on (manly crisp, clean models that look almost showroom new).
I started out by priming the model in grey, then used a dark brown to base my rust, then added more brown reds and finally orange in certain spots to add variety of color like you would see in the real world.
Once done with that step a HEAVY gloss coat was added. This is needed to protect the rust layer so that it does not get stripped off in later steps.
After the gloss coat was fully cured (about 24 hours). I then coated the model with hair spray. Now a word of caution, do not use your wife's fancy expensive hair spray. First the stuff won't react with the water later, and it's almost guaranteed to start an argument.....Go out and grab a bottle of Aqua Net from the dollar store of your choice.
The hairspray only takes about an hour to set. We then proceed to paint the base color onto the model with an airbrush. this requires very light coats of paint at a lower psi as you want to avoid the water in the paint from activating the hair spray.
After all that works it's then time to ruin a perfectly good paint job. I start by taking a paint brush and loading it with water, then basically "paint the mini" with water in a small section, wait a few seconds for the water to activate the hairspray and then use a tooth brush to chip off the paint. When the desired effect is reached take a dry paper towel and dab the part of the model clean. Then move on to the next piece etc till done.
Once the chipping is finished it's time to protect what is already done. I find another heavy coat of gloss varnish to work really well here and it sets up the next step in the process. The wash.... Personally I like to use an oil was for this effect. not only does it flow into the recess better but you can achieve really nice rust streaks with it as well.
After a few hours of the oil drying I then use weathering powder to further diminish the fresh look of the paint. The not quite dry oil wash helps the pigments adhere to the model.
After that a good matte varnish and then you just finish off the details...
See clear as mud right?
So here is the result of all that text.
I'm not the biggest fan of seeing a whole army full of weathered, chipped, and beaten up equipment. Real armies in the real world meticulously maintain their weapons (else they stop working). That being said, we paint and play with toys and whimsy so it's all good to have something all beaten down by time.
Taking that into account I wanted to do something completely different from what I have been working on (manly crisp, clean models that look almost showroom new).
I started out by priming the model in grey, then used a dark brown to base my rust, then added more brown reds and finally orange in certain spots to add variety of color like you would see in the real world.
Once done with that step a HEAVY gloss coat was added. This is needed to protect the rust layer so that it does not get stripped off in later steps.
After the gloss coat was fully cured (about 24 hours). I then coated the model with hair spray. Now a word of caution, do not use your wife's fancy expensive hair spray. First the stuff won't react with the water later, and it's almost guaranteed to start an argument.....Go out and grab a bottle of Aqua Net from the dollar store of your choice.
The hairspray only takes about an hour to set. We then proceed to paint the base color onto the model with an airbrush. this requires very light coats of paint at a lower psi as you want to avoid the water in the paint from activating the hair spray.
After all that works it's then time to ruin a perfectly good paint job. I start by taking a paint brush and loading it with water, then basically "paint the mini" with water in a small section, wait a few seconds for the water to activate the hairspray and then use a tooth brush to chip off the paint. When the desired effect is reached take a dry paper towel and dab the part of the model clean. Then move on to the next piece etc till done.
Once the chipping is finished it's time to protect what is already done. I find another heavy coat of gloss varnish to work really well here and it sets up the next step in the process. The wash.... Personally I like to use an oil was for this effect. not only does it flow into the recess better but you can achieve really nice rust streaks with it as well.
After a few hours of the oil drying I then use weathering powder to further diminish the fresh look of the paint. The not quite dry oil wash helps the pigments adhere to the model.
After that a good matte varnish and then you just finish off the details...
See clear as mud right?
So here is the result of all that text.
Saturday, July 30, 2016
Just a quick War Jack to lighten the mood.
If you have been following along here, on Facebook and a few forums you will know that I have quite a few projects going on at the same time.
Because I don't have enough on my pallet I wanted to finish my new Khador Battle Box as well. So while other models were in different stages of drying, curing etc I painted up one of the Jacks in the Box (ah puns!).
Anyway..... I give you the Decimator (no I don't make up these names, other people get paid lots of money for this kind of magic...).
As a side note I really hate PVC plastic for models. The grooves and mold lines are a nightmare to clean up right.
If you have been following along here, on Facebook and a few forums you will know that I have quite a few projects going on at the same time.
Because I don't have enough on my pallet I wanted to finish my new Khador Battle Box as well. So while other models were in different stages of drying, curing etc I painted up one of the Jacks in the Box (ah puns!).
Anyway..... I give you the Decimator (no I don't make up these names, other people get paid lots of money for this kind of magic...).
As a side note I really hate PVC plastic for models. The grooves and mold lines are a nightmare to clean up right.
Wednesday, July 27, 2016
Devastator Part 1.0
It's time to bust out ye olde rusting again. It's been a good long while and I figured why not give my self a challenge and go with a good dirty rusted out warjack. Not only good and rusty but lets assume that it was white at some point in it's carrier.
The devastator just seemed to fit the bill. It has good flat vertical lines and nice slopes to make run off and rust streaks look good.
So far i have gotten the basic rust chipping added. In my next post you will see the real magic....
so have a little taste.
It's time to bust out ye olde rusting again. It's been a good long while and I figured why not give my self a challenge and go with a good dirty rusted out warjack. Not only good and rusty but lets assume that it was white at some point in it's carrier.
The devastator just seemed to fit the bill. It has good flat vertical lines and nice slopes to make run off and rust streaks look good.
So far i have gotten the basic rust chipping added. In my next post you will see the real magic....
so have a little taste.
Sunday, July 17, 2016
A Kodiak!
Moving forward in my quest to "paint them all", it was time to break out the Khador Kodiak. If you have been reading my blog for a while you will have noticed that I paint a metric crap-ton of red (it's a measurement.... look it up.). I decided to mix it up a bit and go with a more traditional color scheme for the Kodiak.
I used the same technique that I do for reds. in that I used a green ink over highlights. One thing I did learn from this is that the green is less translucent then the red ink so I had to go much more extreme with the under highlights. Overall I am really happy with how it turned out.
Moving forward in my quest to "paint them all", it was time to break out the Khador Kodiak. If you have been reading my blog for a while you will have noticed that I paint a metric crap-ton of red (it's a measurement.... look it up.). I decided to mix it up a bit and go with a more traditional color scheme for the Kodiak.
I used the same technique that I do for reds. in that I used a green ink over highlights. One thing I did learn from this is that the green is less translucent then the red ink so I had to go much more extreme with the under highlights. Overall I am really happy with how it turned out.
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