Saturday, August 5, 2017

Nemo 5.0

Well It was more work time on the Nemo bust. I continued to work on the skin, more and more glazing to get the shading and highlighting right. I'm happy with where the skin tone is now. I tried something different and funky with the eyes on this one. I went all "Storm" and tried to get a glow from the eyes, like there was some kind of magic happening. I'm not sure if I like it or not, so we shall see if it stays of if I blow it out and redo it normally.

Other than that, highlights were added to the golds, the purple and the silvers. a bit of wash was applied strategically on the armor. and well here are the pics.




Tuesday, August 1, 2017

Nemo 4.0

This one is slowly coming along. Tonight I was able to put a bit of time in on the face, hair, and metals.

The skin tones are coming along, I think I may have over did the highlights a bit, so I will have to go back and blend them in so that it becomes a smooth transition. Also looks like I need to add higher highlights on the hair based on the pictures it looks to be blending in. Aside from that I'm really happy with how the metals are turning out. The P3 pig iron on the screws looks really good with the rust. I still need to highlight up and blend into black in spots. The rust and metal mix looks better than I had imagined it would at this stage.

So yea lots more to do before school starts back up in a few weeks.






Friday, July 21, 2017

Nemo part 3.

Well things are moving along with this bust. I'm still happily surprised with how smooth and almost easy it is to paint this thing. The lines are just nice and crisp, the edges are defined well. I kinda wish everything was as nice to paint as this one.

With that all out of the way, lets get down to some painting.

I started by grabbing the silly putty to mask off the face. I used a sculpting tool to push the putty away from the face and into the crevasses so that I had a clear shot to the face with the airbrush. It's almost funny how much it looks like a shroud.




After that I used Reaper Masters Series Olive Drab as the base color for the skin tone. Then moved on to a glaze of Reaper Masters Series Tanned Flesh. After that dried I hit it with the Tanned Flesh Highlight (again watered down to a glaze). 




Up next will be to darken the shaded parts of the face and bring up the highlights a bit more, but that's all for the next installment. 



Wednesday, July 19, 2017

Nemo part 2.5 - The re-rusting.

If you don't take pictures while working I'd implore you to start. It's amazing what you can see when you take a step back and literally look through a lens at your work. I did just this with the Nemo bust and realized that I was not happy with the chipping. It looked too uniform and forced and needed fixing. So I went back with a hard bristle tooth brush some water and ice in my veins to set things right.

I think this looks much better now.



Saturday, July 15, 2017

Nemo part 2.

Just a quick update this time. I have started to work on the chipping. I'm pretty happy with the left shoulder but the right looks a bit too regular. Other than that it will soon be time to add a bit of oil wash to "run" down from the rust spots, and them on to working the face.




Thursday, July 6, 2017

Nemo update 1.

Well this guy is coming along nicely. I decided that the end goal is going to look as though Nemo has seen some better days. With that in mind I started out with a rust under coat. I'll be using the hair spray technique on this one. I feel that it gives a real feel with depth to the rust and pitting in the armor.





Here you can see that I started with a base brown and worked up different spots to almost an orange. It's important to vary the colors of your browns as it is both visually stimulating and mimics what rust actually looks like.

Next up was a heavy layer of gloss varnish. This is important. It needs to be heavy to protect the rust layer for whats to come down the road.

After the varnish had time to cure (about 8 hours) It was time to coat the model in hair spray. As I've said time and again, you must use the cheap stuff. Aqua Net all the way. Don't go and steal your significant others (or even your own) fancy smells good stuff. We need the cheap stuff that almost instantly activates when wet.

I let the hairspray dry overnight. While it does not require anywhere near that long to dry I was tires and hit the sack.

Next up it was time to base coat. The standard paint job for this sculpt and pretty much all Cygnar is blue..... I am not going blue. It's just boring to me. I wanted an almost yellowish green look for this one and started with a nice base coat. One thing to keep in mind is that the hairspray will activate with water. So when working over it you must keep moving your airbrush and build up the layers slowly. This takes time but it is worth it. With the base coat laid down It was time to apply the highlights. I basically took my base coat and added white till I was happy that there would be enough contrast and even help bring out a bit of shadow.





And not it's time to let everything dry. Next up will be paint chipping and weathering around the rust. 



Monday, July 3, 2017

General Adept Sebastian Nemo!

I think it's time to bring out this bad boy. This was the Gen Con bust that Privateer Press released last year. He's been sitting on the shelf a while. I've never done a bust from PP before, but having worked with plenty of their regular models I was a bit nervous to crack the box open. PP likes to use resin and PVC plastic. Anyone who has had the displeasure of working with PVC knows just how frustrating and time consuming it is to get mold lines and imperfections out of the material. You can't really use a hobby knife as the stuff forms long strands and gets really weak and likes to peal like an apple. Using a metal file is a no go as the stuff likes to shred. I have found that the Tamia (sic?) file sticks work well on PVC but take a while to get it filed down right.

So after all of that I opened the box.



I was quite surprised at just how clean the model was right out of the gate. 


You can see that there is very little to clean up on the front side. Just a bit of flash right under the lower belly. 





On the back between the shoulders was a vent that needed to be cut off and sanded down. Other than that there was a very slight mold line on the top of the coil sticking out above his head. 

The shoulder things are another matter. These had really bad mold lines on the under side. I can forgive this as its going to sit flush against the model (and do not really need to be added in any case). 



All in all this looks like it is going to be a really fun project to work on over the next few weeks.

As a side note. I'll be testing out the new SOTAR 2020 on this one. So bonus right? 

Saturday, July 1, 2017

The new Behemoth!

Well Privateer Press actually managed to really impress me with an updated version of a classic model. The old Behemoth was clunky and top heavy with tiny legs (think body builder who skips leg day). When the new model came out I was a bit skeptical of replacing my already bought and painted version, however fate intervened and my old model decided that even with pins it was time for the metal twigs it called legs to let go.

So here we are with the new and improved Big B. I love the way it protrudes bulk. They really nailed it on the head with the proportions and really looks menacing. When I think of a giant stompy robot in a steampunk setting this is most definitely what my mind goes to.

Without further ado I give you my version of the Behemoth (also scroll through the pics for a look at the old one).






And as mentioned above here is my old one. Please note this is before I had a light box or a real camera or really knew what I was doing when painting.


Saturday, June 17, 2017

A wild post appears!

Let me start off with a BIG apology. It's been about 5 months since my last post, and for that I am truly sorry. I can give you all kinds of excuses but hey I'm back and I have all summer to post pictures and paint models. So let the shenanigans begin.

To start, here is the Khador Conquest. I did this in my normal Inks first style. It was a bit more of a challenge as the larger the model the more light has to "hit" it. It took a few tries to get the shading and highlights to where I was happy with them. Other than that a large model like this is pretty much the same. Make sure your paint is thin and work in coats.




Then for run I did up an older metal Khador Destroyer for fun. I did this one in about 2 hours. Nothing special just wanted a quick project to work on in a color other than red. 





Up next was the Khador Grolar. I tried something different and went with a high contrast between the Red and bright Green. I like it. If you look carefully at the shield on the right arm you will notice some purple and blue inks in an attempt to make the gold look a bit more tarnished. 





Sunday, February 19, 2017

Some much needed Red.

Hey there folks. I got a bit of time tonight to work on the bust. I was able to start on the red metallic of the shoulder armor. I started by masking off the skin with Silly Putty. That might sound weird but it's a fantastic way to mask, it does not leave any residue and is really easy to get into cracks and crevasse. More importantly it is easy to remove with no issues.

I started with Vallejo Model Air - Steel which is a bit bright for what I normally use but for this I want it to stick out a bit more before bringing it down with glazes later. Once that was dry I used P3 - Red ink and did a nice fine layer leaving most of the metallic shine.



Then it was time for the gloss coat to seal in the freshness.

I had a bit more time so I spent the next 2 hours building this guy. It's the latest large model for Khador from Privateer Press and is also totally in hard plastic on sprue. Which was nice but a heck of a lot of pieces for one large model.