Friday, January 30, 2015

Diorama 7.75

To answer your first question, Yes my numbering system is completely arbitrary.

OK, that out of the way. I was actually able to sit down for a few hours and paint! Behemoth's matte varnish had dried over night and so the hair brushing could now begin.

I used Vallejo Game Color - Black, and yes you are correct I have repeatedly said to not use strait black on your models. Always go a shade lighter. You are correct, however the black in this case is needed and will be highlighted up to the point of not really even noticing it was strait black to start with.

Then it was on to the metallic colors. The silver is Vallejo Model Air Chrome. I wanted the silver to be really bright and shiny so when it is knocked down with a wash or two it still has a bit of a gleam to it.

The brass..... Oh the brass. I started out with Vallejo Game Air Brassy Brass and I am honestly disappointed in it. The coverage is still fantastic but it is way to brown. I mixed it with about 2:1 Vallejo Model Color - Brass and it gave me a good mid-tone brass. Then it was time for a quick wash. I used Vallejo Game Color - Sepia Wash as a first wash to bring down the silver and brass.

Now to let it dry. and then it will be time to work on details like highlighting the black, adding battle damage and washing it again.

So here have some pictures.



Wednesday, January 28, 2015

Diorama - 7.5

We last left off at the over highlighting and it already was starting to look rich with a good depth of color.

I went to the Hobby Lobby yesterday and got some artists inks. I grabbed the FW stuff that is made for ink pens an airbrushing. It comes in a decent sized glass bottle with a glass dropper built into the cap. How cool and old timey is that?

When I pulled some out to put into the airbrush I noticed some stark differences right away to the P3 ink. This stuff is much thinner and more vibrant. I tested shooting it through the airbrush at 10psi and had to turn it down to about 5psi to get it to shoot without spidering.

I laid a very, very light coat down over the flesh tones and man it just looks amazing. The model is drying right now. I hope to get to at least varnish it again tonight so that I can finish this up on Friday and move on to the next model.

Take a look at how its turning out so far.





Diorama 7.0 - The Highlights.... Oh the Highlights.

I had a few minutes after class (so read about 10pm last night) to work on this model a bit more. I was able to add the second highlight (well first over color). I used Vallejo Model Color - Light Skin Tone mixed at 1:2 with water, and very slowly applied the highlight to the raised areas. I can honestly say I am just astounded at how well this technique works. The depth of color is just insane (I think I said that after the last coat too but man it's true).

To give you an idea, there is no direct light on this model. the "shine" is all paint.

Up next will be a very light coat of red ink to smooth out the highlights and then its on to the blacks, golds, silvers etc.....





Monday, January 26, 2015

Diorama 6.0 - Behemoth!

I have watched Les over at Awesome Paint Job paint this model and I found his technique amazing. using inks to create a fantastic depth of color on the model. I decided that if I am going to do this thing I am going to do it right and use every trick I have learned to produce the absolute best models I can.

I started with Vallejo Grey Surface Primer and after curing I used Vallejo Model Color Dark Grey as my base color. I then used Vallejo Game Color Stone Grey for the highlights on the model.





Then it was time to play with the Ink. I only have P3 red ink at my disposal right now. I played with it through my Badger Krome given that it has a very small needle (0.2mm) and I can shoot it at a much lower psi. I found that 10psi was the "sweet spot". I used about a 1:1 mix of P3 Red Ink and Vallejo Airbrush Thinner. The depth of color after just one coat of red ink is already astounding. 








I've just coated it with a Tamiya Matte Varnish and once dry I will start the second layer of highlights using a soft skin tone. 

Stay tuned I have a feeling this will be the best model I have ever produced. 



Sunday, January 25, 2015

Diorama 5.0. If a tree gets Greens Stuffed in the forest.....


Ok bad joke opening aside. I finally had a few moments between work, school, and kids to get just about an hour of hobby time in today.

I wanted to get the Tree sculpted at least. I mixed up some GS and basically just wrapped up the twisted pairs of wire in as thin of a coat of GS as possible. Some places I made a bit thicker to try and simulate knots and stuff like that. This is my first time trying anything like this and I don't think it came out half bad.

Not to let it dry and then paint it up real quick and be done with this part.